San Sebastián, January 2026: A Century of Drums, Endless Waves, and Michelin Stars
- Apr 12
- 3 min read
Sometimes the best experiences are the ones you don't plan. That’s exactly what happened to me this January when we arrived in San Sebastián (Donostia). We expected a quiet Basque city in the off-season, but instead, we drove straight into the 100th-anniversary celebrations of the unified Tamborrada. It was in 1926 when all the drum parades first united under one flag at Plaza de la Constitución. The thunder in the streets is indescribable; it’s something you simply have to experience.
Base in the Hills and Bus No. 16
Since the center was packed to the brim, I anchored up the hill at Camping Monte Igueldo. You wake up to absolute silence with a view of the endless ocean, and when you feel like diving into the city madness, you hop on Bus No. 16. It runs frequently and drops you in the center in just a few minutes. It’s a genius setup: peaceful evenings by the campervan, vibrant city life by day.
Surfing Zurriola: When to Catch the Best Wave?
While tourists take photos at La Concha, we head to the Gros district to Playa de la Zurriola.
When to go? The golden rule for Zurriola: the best and longest rides are during the incoming tide. Ideally, start 2 hours before high tide. The waves are cleaner and more powerful then. At low tide, the waves tend to "close out" and drop too fast.
Gear: If you don't have your own, you can rent a full kit (board + wetsuit) for about €15–20 a day at Hawaii Donostia or Sin Fin Surf Club.
Gros: Where the Youth Gathers
After surfing, nobody leaves—everyone stays in Gros. Streets like Calle Peña y Goñi are the city's pulse. Here you’ll find locals standing on the sidewalk with a beer in hand, discussing life. Stop by Bodega Donostiarra for their legendary Indurain pintxo (a combination of tuna, anchovies, and guindilla pepper)—without it, you haven't truly been to San Sebastián.
A Michelin Powerhouse: Gastronomy as Religion
If you want to treat yourself to one of the highest concentrations of Michelin stars in the world, you are in the best place in Europe. This is a city where even a meal in a tucked-away bar is discussed as fine art.
Three-Star Legends: For the absolute pinnacle, there’s Arzak (a family institution run by Juan Mari and his daughter Elena) or Akelaŕe, offering incredible sea views.
Accessible Stars: Try Amelia, located right by La Concha beach—modern, bold, and incredibly good.
Note: During this anniversary year, foodies from around the world book tables at least 3 months in advance.
The Mountains Surrounding the City
When you’ve had enough of the food and drumming, hike up Monte Urgull to the statue of Christ or head to the other side to Monte Ulia. The cliffs and views of the Bay of Biscay will remind you why the Basque Country is so special.
San Sebastián isn't just about the "100 years" since the first Tamborrada. It’s about how this city blends historical pride, a tight-knit community, surf vibes, and food you’ll remember for the rest of your life. It has an incredible genius loci. The nature here is completely different from the rest of Spain—forests like ours in Bohemia, mountains like Switzerland—it’s a place you simply must experience.
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